Ernst Andreas continues the tradition of fine dining at Stables and Dos Silos By Mike TouzeauCulinary craftsman Ernst Ernie Andreas added Stables Ranch Grill and Dos Silos at the Tubac Golf Resort to his globe-hopping list of challenges. Partnered with good friends Eric Flatt and John Malcolm, who own and operate Cartwrights Sonoran Ranch House and Tonto Bar and Grill in Cave Creek, Andreas reinvented the famous and historic dining spots last fall as their new operating owner. I wanted another challenge, said the tall, engaging German-American who has spent his life creating culinary memories for satisfied diners all over the world. Born in Dillenburg, Germany, between Frankfort and Cologne, Andreas comes from a fifth-generation food family whose restaurant, and even wine barrel making experience, provided him with the chance to gain valuable insights into the business from the time he could walk and talk. After school After culinary school and an apprenticeship at Restaurant La Toscana in Haiger, Germany, then his mandatory military service, he spent a year as chef for guests of the German president, chancellor, and Administration of the Republic, preparing dishes for Jimmy Carter, Queen Elizabeth, Leonid Brezhnev, King Gustav of Sweden, King Hussein, and other visiting members of state. A self-proclaimed vagabond, Andreas picked up years of valuable experience in hotels in Europe, New Zealand, South Africa, the Far East, and the U.S. Everywhere I was, I worked in the business, he said. Employed on a cruise ship, he met his wife, Teri, and settled into family life in California as executive chef and beverage director at Pasadera Country Club in Monterrey. He had met his current partners while first serving as executive chef at the Pebble Beach Lodge. They convinced him to take over in Tubac, which he sees as yet another opportunity and adventure. He misses Teri and his two daughters, Haley, 16, who’s coming to U of A on a golf scholarship, and Lena, 13, back in Pacific Grove and although they remain supportive of one more of his adventures, he hopes to build toward a more hands-off approach in the future. But right now I am totally focused, he said, describing how he is in at 5:30 to make security and financial checks, does the paperwork, works in the kitchen, helps with ordering, watches the floor, greets customers, and supervises the operation till 10 in the evening seven days a week. A big part of that focus is to continue to celebrate the rich history of the Spanish, Mexicans, Native Americans, and the Otero family ranch influence on the surroundings and cuisine he offers. Stables is named for the horse stable on the ranch that was established in 1789 by the Oteros, a Spanish family looking for the perfect grasslands to raise cattle, and Dos Silos is likewise named for two of the silos preserved on the location. Dos Silos rests beneath two replicated towering silos that housed grain on the ranch and retains the regional Mexican offerings that feature all-natural meats and fresh seafood. We use as many local ingredients as we can, Andreas said. Did you say, shrimp? You can enjoy Desert Sweet shrimp, for example, from the Gila Bend farm in the Ceviche de Caya y Camarones or on the Sizzling Fajita Platter with a choice of 25 different Mexican tequilas or four different specialty margaritas. Stables, with its inviting Old West hacienda ambience, including the Rock Room with stone floors and the original ceiling beams and stone fireplace, keeps its unique all-day menu, with ranch omelettes, authentic huevos rancheros, and buttermilk pancakes with Vermont maple syrup for breakfast, followed by a lunch/dinner menu after 11 a.m. that includes unique steak, pasta, and seafood entrees, plus sandwiches, soups, and salads of all sizes. It gives people an option, Andreas explained, something for everybody. You can get a full-course gourmet offering with quality wine or just linger over a salad or maybe a half-pound Tubac burger and cold beer anytime, either outside on two different patios, or in the air-conditioned bright and intimate dining area with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the mountains. Cattle still wander amid the huge mesquite and cottonwood trees near the golf practice areas and 9th hole where “Tin Cup” was filmed in front of the restaurant. Open 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily, there’s also a bar menu till 10, and Andreas has already taken advantage of the magnificent Spanish chapel (non-denominational) and beautiful garden settings to do weddings and banquets. Phone (520) 398-2678, or visit www.tubacgolfresort.com. |